Watches

[RebelAlliance]

On 7/15/2022 at 5:57 PM, smltwnrckr said:

For the Plebes out there who want a GMT...

Timex and Seiko both came out with affordable versions. 

 

https://www.timex.com/waterbury-traditional-gmt-39mm-sst-leather-strap-watch/Waterbury-Traditional-GMT-39mm-SST-Leather-Strap-Watch.html?dwvar_Waterbury-Traditional-GMT-39mm-SST-Leather-Strap-Watch_color=Stainless-Steel-Black&cgid=waterbury-gmt#gclid=CjwKCAjwoMSWBhAdEiwAVJ2ndpTSBbqSvK7V35-NJyXDt22fhvIIDh9woomqRtJ2CzyF1MD7BdAWbBoCF6EQAvD_BwE&start=1

 

https://www.timex.com/browse/collections/q-timex/q-timex-gmt/?gclid=CjwKCAjwoMSWBhAdEiwAVJ2ndgGUW4zrmckUQ5De6lUeMemmtHAohXF_Yr6UH2ZuaPL3FW9iPiq5WxoCjTAQAvD_BwE

 

 

https://www.gearpatrol.com/watches/a40228326/seiko-5-sports-gmt-watches/

 

The Seiko GMT is incredible for $500.  I wished that they'd avoided the cyclops homage crap though.  Best version is ORANGE.

 

Though to be pedantic, the movement is not the same as a true GMT movement.  It's a desktop GMT, which means that there is no separate jumping hour hand that you can change to local time when you land.  Great watch but not the same as the Rolex and Omega being discussed above.  

[Stealthlobo]

On 7/15/2022 at 5:32 PM, RebelAlliance said:

Here's my PO GMT the day I brought it home.  Love it.  For me, the helium escapement valve and the cyclops window were both negatives, but after having the PO for a couple of years now, I no longer even notice the He valve, but I think the damned cyclops would be noticeable every single time I looked at it.  43mm is fine on my 7 1/4 wrist, though the 17mm thickness will always be there.  The phone camera makes it look a lot larger on my wrist than it really is.

The new Blue Snoopy is a bit of a weird one.  It was supposed to be a regular edition, but the crypto freaks glommed onto it because of the "too the moon" metaphor which caused the crazy aftermarket surge.  I think, as they all sink back down into bankruptcy, it might be a bit easier to get.

That's a beautiful watch, but 43mm is just too big for me. 

The GSs are too big as well but amazing looking IMO. I know @NMpackalum was partial towards the white dial version. I know they make smaller fixed bezel options, but they don't compare to the ceramic bezel:

[retrofade]

I kinda really want the SSK003K1 "Blueberry". 

https://www.mastersintime.com/us/en/seiko-seiko-5-blueberry-automatic-gents-gmt-watch-skx-re-interpretation-ssk003k1.htm

[retrofade]

There's also the SNR049J, but it's a bit out of my price range for the moment... lest my wife murder me. 

[RebelAlliance]

On 7/15/2022 at 6:45 PM, Stealthlobo said:

That's a beautiful watch, but 43mm is just too big for me. 

The GSs are too big as well but amazing looking IMO. I know @NMpackalum was partial towards the white dial version. I know they make smaller fixed bezel options, but they don't compare to the ceramic bezel:

Check out the French microbrand Baltic.  They introduced a GMT that uses a Swiss movement.  The cases are relatively small and the design is definitely 60s retro.

 

[Stealthlobo]

On 7/16/2022 at 10:19 AM, RebelAlliance said:

Check out the French microbrand Baltic.  They introduced a GMT that uses a Swiss movement.  The cases are relatively small and the design is definitely 60s retro.

 

That is nice! Ill have to look to see if a local spot has one in stock. Some brands are really hard to find in the US. My gf is super interested in a Doxa Sub200 for her next watch, but can't find anywhere that carries the brand.

[RebelAlliance]

On 7/16/2022 at 12:10 PM, Stealthlobo said:

That is nice! Ill have to look to see if a local spot has one in stock. Some brands are really hard to find in the US. My gf is super interested in a Doxa Sub200 for her next watch, but can't find anywhere that carries the brand.

Pretty sure you'll need to buy direct from Baltic.  I don't know about Doxa, but I'd bet they don't have AD's.

BTW, that Sub200 is a really nice watch for a grand.  I like the aesthetics a lot more on it than on the more expensive Doxa divers.  

[TheSanDiegan]

On 7/15/2022 at 5:17 PM, retrofade said:

There's also the SNR049J, but it's a bit out of my price range for the moment... lest my wife murder me. 

Seiko's vertical blue gradient dials are second only to the DSSD.

That being said, I am not a fan of Seiko's positioning of any watch outside of the GS catalog in the mid-for figure range. The Prospex divers are - were - the best bang for the buck in professional divers, and I can't help but see this as a waypoint in the pathway of increasing prices across their line. I think I'll stick to my Turtle and SKX and save the spring drive for a GS purchase.

 

 

ETA: Congratulations, @retrofade. I'd say you officially have the Sickness. 

[TheSanDiegan]

On 7/16/2022 at 9:19 AM, RebelAlliance said:

Check out the French microbrand Baltic.  They introduced a GMT that uses a Swiss movement.  The cases are relatively small and the design is definitely 60s retro.

 

Appears to have a ceramic bezel too. A nice, vintage look with the (double?) domed crystal, bead bracelet, and missing crown guard. Reminds me a lot of the Oris 65. 

Welcome to the thread, btw. Dig on your PO and it's nice to have another "watch guy" here. I'm guessing you post on WUS?

[RebelAlliance]

On 7/17/2022 at 12:46 PM, TheSanDiegan said:

Appears to have a ceramic bezel too. A nice, vintage look with the (double?) domed crystal, bead bracelet, and missing crown guard. Reminds me a lot of the Oris 65. 

Welcome to the thread, btw. Dig on your PO and it's nice to have another "watch guy" here. I'm guessing you post on WUS?

I don't.  I gave the Omega forum a brief spin but didn't care for it.  

[RebelAlliance]

On 7/15/2022 at 7:15 PM, retrofade said:

I kinda really want the SSK003K1 "Blueberry". 

https://www.mastersintime.com/us/en/seiko-seiko-5-blueberry-automatic-gents-gmt-watch-skx-re-interpretation-ssk003k1.htm

Do it.  I've watched a few youtube reviews on these.  The only real drawback is water resistance.  They list it as 100M, but without a screw in crown, I wouldn't swim in it.  Also, these movements will hit the secondary market pretty soon.  I'd be eager to see what Mark at Long Island Watch does with it for his Islander line.  His version will certainly have true screw-in crown 200M water resistance, sapphire crystal and ceramic bezels.

[TheSanDiegan]

On 7/17/2022 at 1:22 PM, RebelAlliance said:

Do it.  I've watched a few youtube reviews on these.  The only real drawback is water resistance.  They list it as 100M, but without a screw in crown, I wouldn't swim in it.  Also, these movements will hit the secondary market pretty soon.  I'd be eager to see what Mark at Long Island Watch does with it for his Islander line.  His version will certainly have true screw-in crown 200M water resistance, sapphire crystal and ceramic bezels.

I definitely prefer screw-down crowns if the watch will be submerged, but only because it mitigates the risk of accidentally pulling it open. That being said, push-crowns with the appropriate WR precautions are every bit as effective (due to positive pressure gradients ensuring gaskets seal correctly). I have multiple watches with 200m WR and push crowns. There are also watches with screw-down crowns and 100m WR. I wold trust the WR in both instances for recreational diving, at least as I interpret the term.

With that in mind, I would certainly trust Seiko's 100m WR rating with a push-crown even though it is well-established that 100m WR doesn't mean you actually get 100m. However, my issue is given the price I would expect a 200m WR rating on anything with a dive bezel (especially from Seiko). I wonder if the spring drive movement has requirements that are not congruent with providing the necessary protection to push it to 200m?

[TheSanDiegan]

On 7/17/2022 at 1:22 PM, RebelAlliance said:

Do it.  I've watched a few youtube reviews on these.  The only real drawback is water resistance.  They list it as 100M, but without a screw in crown, I wouldn't swim in it.  Also, these movements will hit the secondary market pretty soon.  I'd be eager to see what Mark at Long Island Watch does with it for his Islander line.  His version will certainly have true screw-in crown 200M water resistance, sapphire crystal and ceramic bezels.

LIW for the win.

[Stealthlobo]

Still my "grail" pm watch. Just an amazing looking piece:

https://www.fratellowatches.com/omega-speedmaster-professional-moonshine-gold/

[bitteraztec]

I’m not buying another watch in the near future.  But My next one will most likely be a Hamilton Khaki Field

 

 

[Stealthlobo]

Another reason to stay away from Rolex or at least not wear them out:

 

[TheSanDiegan]

On 7/20/2022 at 11:30 AM, Stealthlobo said:

Another reason to stay away from Rolex or at least not wear them out:

 

"A fool and his Rollie are soon parted." 

[TheSanDiegan]

On 7/19/2022 at 7:34 PM, bitteraztec said:

I’m not buying another watch in the near future.  But My next one will most likely be a Hamilton Khaki Field

 

 

Cannot go wrong with that watch. It is iconic in every sense of the word. 

[TheSanDiegan]

On 7/19/2022 at 2:19 PM, Stealthlobo said:

Still my "grail" pm watch. Just an amazing looking piece:

https://www.fratellowatches.com/omega-speedmaster-professional-moonshine-gold/

I'm sure I've mentioned it upthread, but a Speedy will be the last watch I ever buy. Made this commitment to the Bump a long time ago. And to punish me, God offered me a Speedy Pro (3590.50), new, from an AD in Zurich for $1,700. Despite my best efforts she held me to my oath so I passed. That was in 2008ish, and the regret stings every bit as bad to this day.

[Stealthlobo]

On 7/20/2022 at 3:04 PM, TheSanDiegan said:

I'm sure I've mentioned it upthread, but a Speedy will be the last watch I ever buy. Made this commitment to the Bump a long time ago. And to punish me, God offered me a Speedy Pro (3590.50), new, from an AD in Zurich for $1,700. Despite my best efforts she held me to my oath so I passed. That was in 2008ish, and the regret stings every bit as bad to this day.

I remember that story. Now that you missed that opportunity, which reference are you now waiting for? Or did your oath +++++ you to never realistically be able to buy a speedy because you can't stop buying other watches?